The Route of the "17 Lakes" in Argentine Patagonia
By Nicolás Etcheverrito
Are seven days enough to cover the route of the seven lakes? Definitely not. This route could be a suitable destination to live due to the infinite variety of landscapes, hideaways, beaches, lakes, forests and roads it offers. The route of the seven lakes is an unmissable tour in Argentina's Patagonia, which combines the majesty of nature with an unforgettable travel experience.
What is the route like?
The traditional route mentions seven lakes from the city of Villa La Angostura to San Martín de los Andes, both in the province of Neuquén. However, there are many more lakes surrounding the city of Bariloche, in the province of Río Negro, that are worth exploring. It is impossible to visit the (more than) seven lakes without adding Lake Nahuel Huapi, Lake Moreno or Lake Gutierrez. The route of the seven lakes follows the mythical Route 40 and covers the lakes Espejo, Correntoso, Villarino, Falkner, Hermoso, Machónico and Lácar, if we mention them from south to north. However, it is unfair not to include lakes such as Espejo Chico, Escondido, Traful, Hua Hum, Nonthué or Meliquina, and even further north, Lake Lolog: 17 lakes (or more).
Why does it take seven days or more for a 108-kilometer route (or 191 if starting from Bariloche)? Although it is possible to travel the route in two or three hours without stopping, the reality is that it is very difficult not to stop at one of the many tourist or panoramic points. The jungle, lakes, landscapes, heights, and animals along the way compel you to stop and enjoy the natural beauty. Each stop offers a unique experience that enriches the journey. A tip: don’t do it in a hurry, since each instance is an opportunity to reconnect with nature. You'll come back totally relaxed if you take enough days to explore it.
Highlights of the Seven-lakes Route
Some of the highlights along the way are inexhaustible in terms of experiences. From visiting Los Arrayanes National Park, which can be explored on foot, by boat or by bicycle (for me this is the best way), to enjoying an afternoon on the shore of any of the lakes or rivers. Next, I want to highlight my four favorite experiences of the route:
1) Arrayanes forest by bike
A must-see tour is to visit the Arrayanes Forest by bicycle. Starting from the city of Villa La Angostura, 12 kilometers are traveled within Los Arrayanes National Park, among ascents, descents, logs and stones, bordering Lake Nahuel Huapi. It is a route of medium difficulty and in some moments, it is necessary to get off the bike due to the steep ups and downs. A great tip to make the most of it is to leave early in the morning, bring something to eat to make a light lunch in the myrtle forest, and return before dark. You will feel tired on the way back, but totally satisfied.
2) Detour to Traful town
Another recommended detour from Route 40 is the town of Traful. Here you can relax and stay on the shores of Lake Traful, enjoy a good barbecue and hike along one of the many trails with views of the Blanco, Coa or Catarata waterfalls. Two days are enough to enjoy the town and its routes.
3) Ñivinco waterfall
The Ñivinco waterfall is an excellent option to sit down and have mate in the afternoon. You can enjoy an impressive wall of water by taking a short tour. During the trail, you will have to ford a river that at some times of the year is cold, so it is important to take an extra pair of shoes or some flip flops, to avoid getting wet.
4) Quila Quina Beach
In San Martín de los Andes, one of the outstanding walks is Quila Quina beach. You can also embark on a trip to Lake Nonthué and see the Hua Hum Waterfall. The tour departs from the city and runs through Lake Lácar, inside the Lanín National Park, with several stops. If you are lucky, you will be able to spot several birds of the region and some choiques. The beach is ideal in summer, and watching the sunset is a beautiful experience, since it is different from the one you can see in the city of San Martín de los Andes. There you can also buy handicrafts or make your own barbecue at the campsites in the area. If you are traveling in another season, you should go to the Hua Hum Waterfall first, near the border with Chile, and spend a night in one of the nearby campsites. In the area there are several trails and panoramic views that will be etched in your memory.
Winter destinations
In these recommendations I am leaving out adventures in the snow, which are also winter destinations par excellence. Cerro Chapelco in San Martín de los Andes, Cerro Bayo in Villa La Angostura and Cerro Catedral in Bariloche are must-see places for fans of skiing and snowboarding activities.
Bariloche requires a separate article due to the large number of activities and places of interest it offers. From its snow-capped hills to its craft breweries and chocolate shops, this city is a destination in itself along the 17-Lakes Route.
Useful tips
This is a trip that must be made with the Maps.me app or with Google Maps downloaded –this is not advertising. These tools will be of great help so as not to miss any of the wonderful places that this route has to offer.